The journey began in 2025, a 9-day photography through Romania, shared with my photo buddy, Henk Vanetie. The entire trip was smoothly managed by Better Places, thanks to our contact person, Adina, whose careful planning ensured we had private tours and a focus on both the magnificent brown bears in the Carpathians and the vibrant birdlife of the Danube Delta.
Our first night was spent in the heart of the capital at Hotel Cismigiu in Bucharest. The following morning, after picking up our rental car, we quickly saw the massive House of Parliament and a colossal mosque under construction before setting off. Our destination was Lepsa, a four-hour, 280 km drive. Along the way, we passed Sinaia, home to King Carol I’s Peles Castle, and made a necessary stop at the famous 14th-century Bran Castle in Brasov, often known as Dracula’s Castle, built to guard a historic mountain pass.
Searching for Bears in the Carpathians
We finally arrived at the small, local hotel Casa Tisaru in Lepsa. Though the staff spoke only Romanian (making Google Translate our often-overwhelmed helper), we received a wonderful room and a delicious dinner.
The next morning, our local guide—friendly, knowledgeable, and fluent in English—picked us up.Our initial exploration led us to vast fields where we captured stunning landscapes, including scenes of sheep farmers with their dogs and herds of wild horses. The afternoon was dedicated to the primary mission: a bear hide. We spent several hours waiting, but since no carcasses were used for bait, luck was against us, and the bears remained elusive.
The following day brought a challenging, yet spectacular 15 km hike. The trail wound through a valley, offering views of impressive waterfalls and sheer mountain walls where we hoped to spot the agile chamois. The water was so clean we even saw the tiny white-throated dipper. Crossing the river often required navigating slippery, fallen trees. Despite our guide being ultra-cautious, with bear spray always in reach, and being in a densely populated bear region, we saw no wild bears. The only one we encountered was sadly a lone animal by the roadside begging for food.
The Birdlife of the Danube Delta
The Birdlife of the Danube Delta
After a final great night’s sleep and breakfast, it was time for another long drive—about 4.5 hours and 270 km—to Tulcea. The drive itself was a step back in time, as the lack of highways forced us onto smaller roads, passing through villages where elderly people were transported by horse and cart—a truly amazing sight.
From Tulcea, a rapid boat whisked us into the heart of the Danube Delta, dropping us off at Crisan village at hotel Vasiliu. We received a warm welcome before settling in for our two days of private tours. The delta is a birdwatching paradise. Our super-friendly private guide had unbelievably sharp eyes, quickly spotting and pointing out countless species. Despite the llanguage barrier (he spoke only Romanian), I was left profoundly impressed by the sheer volume and variety of bird wildlife in this unique European ecosystem.
A Final Night in Bucharest
Finally, it was time for the long drive back to Bucharest, this time utilizing the highway for a faster journey. Our last night’s hotel room was “over the top,” providing a luxurious end to the adventure. We treated ourselves to a traditional meal in the bustling old city centre and captured some striking night shots in the heart of the city.
What a wonderful, unforgettable trip it was, successfully blending the raw beauty of the Carpathians with the teeming life of the Danube Delta.
